Te Kete o Karaitiana Taiuru (Blog)

Stuff wrote a story today about the UK brewer Butcombe producing a Pale Ale called “Haka” featuring a silver or white fern.

I did accuse Butcombe of cultural appropriation earlier in 2017 of their Haka branded pale ale. They were among 7 other UK brewers I contacted.  In contrast to the other UK brewers whom I contacted, Butcombe didn’t ignore me or my colleagues at Craft Beer College and UK based journalist Denise Garland who also wrote about the issues in an article in October 2017 Society of Beer Advocates newsletter SOBA, contacted them. Butcombe made changes without the need to use the media to seek assistance.

In conjunction with Craft Beer College and Denise Garland, we created a fact sheet for UK brewers to assist them to avoid cultural appropriation of Māori. I believe that Butcombe have applied the knowledge in the fact sheet in their re branding.

The result was that the brand was removed and then re branded. The owner was a little upset about causing offence and appeared genuinely apologetic.

I do not believe that the new Haka Pale Ale label brand is cultural appropriation of Māori. Firstly, before judging, a read of their story behind the beer is required.

If we analyse the facts:

1. The beer has been given a whakapapa o the label.
2. There is no tapu noa issues with designs or imagery.
3. No New Zealand property right laws that I am aware of have been broken.
4. The word haka is synonymous with Rugby. This beer has been made to celebrate the world cup 2019.
5. We know the owner of brewery is appreciative of Māori culture.

The word Haka could cause some discussion and offence as internationally the haka is often considered as an act of violence and intimidation. Recently an Irish Rugby writer complained about the use of the Haka before the All Blacks play as it is an unfair advantage.

We also need to consider that there are other branded Haka beer labels using appropriation on the market that are not getting any attention. We also need to acknowledge the other UK brewers who have re branded their Haka Ale labels to be more appropriate.

Considering the Haka and the actions are internationally known and associated with Rugby, there is no cultural appropriation with Haka Pale Ale. Also considering the good intentions and interaction with the brewer, it is likely not to be offensive to Māori other than the fact a Maori word is being used for alcohol.